The
History of Thanksgiving
by Rob Ramsdale 11/9/04
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Authentic
Thanksgiving Menu
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An
Authentic Thanksgiving Dinner Menu
For most Americans, the Thanksgiving meal consists
of a turkey with stuffing, cranberry sauce, potatoes,
and pumpkin pie (or sweet potato pie if you hail from
the South.). While there are numerous regional and
ethnic variations, this basic menu has not changed
much in the last two hundred years. Nor is the standard
menu much older than that. Our modern holiday fare
bears little resemblance to the food eaten at the
three-day 1621 harvest celebration at Plymouth Colony,
the event now recalled as the First Thanksgiving.
The Wampanoag and Plymouth colonists often ate wild
turkey, however it was not specifically mentioned
in connection with the Winslow version of the 1621
harvest celebration. Edward Winslow said only that
four men went hunting and brought back large amounts
of fowl more likely from the scenario
to be seasonal waterfowl such as ducks and geese.
And what about the stuffing? Yes, the Wampanoag and
English did occasionally stuff the birds and fish,
typically with herbs, onions or oats (English only).
The typical menu of Thanksgiving dinner is actually
more than 200 years younger than that 1621 celebration
and reflects both the holidays New England roots
and a Victorian nostalgia for an imaginary time when
hearth and home, family and community, were valued
over progress and change. But while we have been able
to work out which modern dishes were not available
in 1621, just what was served is a tougher nut to
crack.
What
was really served at the First Thanksgiving
There are only two contemporary accounts of the 1621
Thanksgiving: First is Edward Winslow's account, which
he wrote in a letter dated December 12, 1621. The
complete letter was first published in 1622.
Our corn [i.e. wheat] did prove well, and God
be praised, we had a good increase of Indian corn,
and our barley indifferent good, but our peas not
worth the gathering, for we feared they were too
late sown. They came up very well, and blossomed,
but the sun parched them in the blossom. Our harvest
being gotten in, our governor sent four men on fowling,
that so we might after a special manner rejoice
together after we had gathered the fruit of our
labors. They four in one day killed as much fowl
as, with a little help beside, served the company
almost a week. At which time, amongst other recreations,
we exercised our arms, many of the Indians coming
amongst us, and among the rest their greatest king
Massasoit, with some ninety men, whom for three
days we entertained and feasted, and they went out
and killed five deer, which they brought to the
plantation and bestowed on our governor, and upon
the captain and others. And although it be not always
so plentiful as it was at this time with us, yet
by the goodness of God, we are so far from want
that we often wish you partakers of our plenty.
He also further describes the bounty of the Plymouth
Colony in his later writings --
Our bay is full of lobsters all the summer and
affordeth variety of other fish; in September we
can take a hogshead of eels in a night, with small
labor, and can dig them out of their beds all the
winter. We have mussels ... at our doors. Oysters
we have none near, but we can have them brought
by the Indians when we will; all the spring-time
the earth sendeth forth naturally very good sallet
herbs. Here are grapes, white and red, and very
sweet and strong also. Strawberries, gooseberries,
raspas, etc. Plums of tree sorts, with black and
red, being almost as good as a damson; abundance
of roses, white, red, and damask; single, but very
sweet indeed
These things I thought good to
let you understand, being the truth of things as
near as I could experimentally take knowledge of,
and that you might on our behalf give God thanks
who hath dealt so favorably with us.1
The second description was written about twenty years
after the fact by William Bradford in his History
Of Plymouth Plantation. Bradford's History was rediscovered
in 1854 after having been taken by British looters
during the Revolutionary War. Its discovery prompted
a greater American interest in the history of the
Pilgrims. It is also in this account that the Thanksgiving
turkey tradition is founded.
They began now to gather in the small harvest
they had, and to fit up their houses and dwellings
against winter, being all well recovered in health
and strength and had all things in good plenty.
For as some were thus employed in affairs abroad,
others were exercising in fishing, about cod and
bass and other fish, of which they took good store,
of which every family had their portion. All the
summer there was no want; and now began to come
in store of fowl, as winter approached, of which
this place did abound when they came first (but
afterward decreased by degrees). And besides waterfowl
there was great store of wild turkeys, of which
they took many, besides venison, etc. Besides they
had about a peck of meal a week to a person, or
now since harvest, Indian corn to that proportion.
Which made many afterwards write so largely of their
plenty here to their friends in England, which were
not feigned but true reports.
Though not specifically mentioned as a food on the
menu, corn was certainly part of the feasts. Remember
that the harvest being celebrated was that of the
colorful hard flint corn that the English often referred
to as Indian corn. This corn was a staple for the
Wampanoag and soon became a fixture in the cooking
pots of New Plymouth. The English had acquired their
first seed corn by helping themselves to a cache of
corn from a Native storage pit on one of their initial
explorations of Cape Cod. (They later paid the owners
for this borrowed corn.) It is intriguing
to imagine how the English colonists processed and
prepared the novel corn for the first time in the
fall of 1621. One colonist gave a hint of how his
countrymen sought to describe and prepare a new grain
in familiar, comforting terms: Our Indian corn,
even the coarsest, maketh as pleasant a meat as rice.3
In other words, traditional English dishes of porridge
and pancakes (and later bread) were adapted to be
used with native corn.
In September and October, a variety of both dried
and fresh vegetables were available. The produce from
the gardens of New Plymouth is likely to have included
what were then called herbs: parsnips,
collards, carrots, parsley, turnips, spinach, cabbages,
sage, thyme, marjoram and onions. Dried cultivated
beans and dried wild blueberries may have been available
as well as native cranberries, pumpkins, grapes and
nuts.
While many elements of the modern holiday menu are
very different from the foods eaten in 1621, the bounty
of the New England autumn was clearly the basis for
both. The impulse to share hospitality with others
and celebrate and give thanks for abundance transcends
the menu. Edward Winslows final comment about
the harvest of 1621, is a sentiment shared by many
Americans on Thanksgiving Day: And although it be
not always so plentiful as it was at this time with
us, yet by the goodness of God, we are so far from
want that we often wish you partakers of our plenty.
The primary historical sources above only list a
few items that were on the Thanksgiving "menu",
namely five deer, a large number of turkies and waterfowl,
cod, and bass; plus the harvest, which consisted of
wheat, corn, barley, and perhaps a few peas. To that
list, we can add a few additional things that are
known to have been native to the area and eaten by
the Pilgrims: clams, mussels, lobster, eel, ground
nuts, acorns, walnuts, chestnuts, squashes, and beans.
Fruits and berries such as strawberries, raspberries,
grapes, and gooseberries were available growing wild.
Pilgrim house-gardens may have included a number of
English vegetables and herbs, perhaps things like
onions, leeks, sorrel, yarrow, lettuce, carrots, radishes,
currants, liverwort, watercress, and others. It is
unlikely much in the way of supplies brought on the
Mayflower survived, such as Holland Cheese, olive
oil, butter, salt pork, sugar, spices, lemons, beer,
aquavitae, or bacon. It appears the Pilgrims may have
had some chickens with them, so likely had access
to a limited number of eggs. No mention of swine is
found in any account of the first year. They did not
have any goats or cattle: the first of those arrived
on the ship Anne in 1623.
Some would have us believe the Indians introduced
the Pilgrims to popcorn at this Thanksgiving: but
the Indian corn they grew was of the Northern Flint
variety, which does not pop well. It was parched to
make a simple snack, and the Indians sometimes ground
it up and mixed it with strawberries for a cake-like
desert. Potatoes and sweet potatoes had not yet been
introduced to New England.
As you might imagine when cooking for 150+ people,
the meal was not high on intricate cooking. However,
the food was very tasty, as both the English and the
native Americans knew about how to plan for large
parties. There were no forks at the time - just knives
and spoons, and plates were usually wooden. The early
pilgrims did not have pigs so anything involving ham
or bacon would be inappropriate and cranberries were
not introduced until many years later.
The 1621 feast probably consisted of the following
items
(constructed from original sources and historical
research by the Plimoth Plantation):
Seethed [boiled] Lobster
Roasted Goose
Boiled Turkey
Fricase of Coney
Pudding of Indian Corn Meal with dried Whortleberries
Seethed Cod
Roasted Duck
Stewed Pumpkin
Roasted Venison with Mustard Sauce
Savory Pudding of Hominy
Fruit and Holland Cheese
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